When Hurricane Helene tore through Southern Appalachia last fall, it left a trail of heartbreak in our mountains, closing beloved destinations like Big Creek in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
For Knoxville folks and us in WNC who cherish this rugged corner straddling the Tennessee-North Carolina line, the closure stung. So, when my photography friend Dan Farmer tipped me off that the Big Creek trail had partially reopened, Rock Sprite and I hit the road to see if our old haunt still held its magic.
For those who haven’t trekked Big Creek, picture this: swift, turquoise water carving through rocky bluffs, swimming holes that beckon on a hot day, and waterfalls that make you pause just to listen. It’s a slice of the Smokies that feels like home to locals and a revelation to visitors. But post-Helene, we weren’t sure what we’d find. Would the trails be washed out? The falls still flowing?
Last Saturday, we parked at the Big Creek Ranger Station, ready for answers. The first hiccup: closure of the campground and parking are adding 7/10-mile to reach the trail proper. No matter – our boots were laced, and the early afternoon air carried that awesome Smoky Mountain spring vibe.
Once on the trail, we found it in surprisingly good shape, thanks to the park’s tireless crews. Sure, Helene left her mark. Boulders, big and small, had shifted like a giant’s game of marbles. Massive obstructions colloquially called “train wrecks” – giant debris piles consisting primarily of tangled and huge broken trees – spanned the creek in places, redirecting the flow in ways that felt both wild and new. It’s a pattern we’re seeing across Southern Appalachian watersheds now, a reminder of nature’s power to alter the terrain.
As we hiked, my heart was in my throat, waiting to see if Big Creek’s crown jewels had survived. Then, there they were: Midnight Hole, a deep, emerald pool perfect for a brave plunge; The Cathedral, a tree-lined portion of Big Creek that invokes the sacred; and Mouse Creek Falls, its raging cascade bounding from a tributary against the green moss and rhododendron. All intact, all breathtaking!
The trail ended just past the falls, likely for ongoing repairs, but what we saw was enough to make us joyful and grateful.
These days, every trip to our favorite spots feels like a roll of the dice. Will the storm’s scars overwhelm the beauty? At Big Creek, we hoped for the best and dang near got it. The area’s spirit — its wild heart — is still beating strong.
For Knoxville hikers, families and adventurers, Big Creek’s reopening is a call to lace up your boots and rediscover this gem at what’s presently a 5- to 6-mile round trip. It’s a chance to witness not just nature’s beauty but its comeback story, one we’re all part of in these mountains. Check the park’s website for updates before you go, and tread lightly as our trails are healing, just like us. Here’s to Big Creek, still standing, still ours.
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- Big Creek mess
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- Mouse Creek Falls
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- Rock Sprite at the Cathedral
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- Rock Sprite and Badger after the hike with Sarah and Dan Farmer
Thomas Mabry – Honey Badger Images
Many of the HoneyBadgerImages are on display at instagram.com/honeybadgerimages.
That’s the Tennessee I grew up loving! That is Tennessee. Beautiful mountain streams wandering through the rocks and boulders surrounded by wonderful tree species and plant life. It’s nature’s air conditioning on a hot summer day. The sound of the water and the singing of birds. Heavenly.