As the holiday season shimmers to life across East Tennessee and Southwest Virginia, there’s no better place to find a little whimsy and entertainment than at the Barter Theatre. This storied playhouse famously began by swapping rutabagas for tickets. Located in Abingdon, Virginia, just two hours from downtown Knoxville, this professional theatre, the State Theatre of Virginia,  has quite a history. The performances are top-notch, professional productions.

“Trading ham for Hamlet”

Early posters declared it. It sounded like a joke, but it became a lifeline. In the depths of the Great Depression, when money was scarce, but gardens were plentiful, Austinville, Virginia, native Robert Porterfield hauled a troupe of hungry, out-of-work actors from New York City to Abingdon to test a simple idea: people may not have cash, but they’ve always got crops — and maybe a little room in their lives for laughter.

In 1931, Porterfield staged two performances of Noël Coward’s Hay Fever in Abingdon, and locals packed the house. They brought eggs, apples, butter, and (according to legend) even a whole hog to barter for admission. The actors ate well, the locals laughed hard, and Porterfield realized he was onto something profound.

Two years later — June 10, 1933 — the Barter Theatre officially opened with the Depression-era drama After Tomorrow. The “experiment” became the nation’s longest-running professional repertory theater. Patrons could bring a bag of carrots, a basket of potatoes, or a nice firm rutabaga to trade for live theater.

The theatre had a ringmaster

Somewhere between 1933 and the late 1950s, Porterfield developed an opening-night ritual that was nearly as famous as the productions themselves. Striding onto the stage, looking every bit the impresario he was, Porterfield would rumble: “Anyone here from Asia, Africa, or Isaiah?”

He delivered it in a booming voice that made the rafters quiver. Laughter always followed. After the chuckles came the challenge: he’d award a pair of hose to the patron who had traveled the farthest to see his “little show.”

People remember his closing line: “If you like us, talk about us; if you don’t, just keep your mouth shut!” Folks have been talking ever since.

The Barter Theatre’s story didn’t stay confined to its own walls. The company toured widely, bringing its Virginia charm to Washington, D.C., New York City, and even Denmark — where the troupe performed Hamlet in the land of Hamlet himself.

Many more budding stars passed through Abingdon as the decades rolled on — Gregory Peck in 1940, Jim Varney before he became “Ernest,” Wayne Knight long before he became Newman, and even a young Kevin Spacey. It was often said that talent stops in Abingdon before it goes everywhere else. Others include Ernest Borgnine, Patricia Neal, Ned Beatty,  Hume Cronyn, Gary Collins, Frances Fisher, and Larry Linville.

Abingdon is its own treasure

Abingdon greets travelers like an old-fashioned Christmas card. Downtown is a cluster of brick sidewalks, lamppost wreaths, and shops with names like The Arts Depot and The Pink Pig. If Hallmark ever runs out of fictional small towns, Abingdon has a résumé ready. And right at the center sits the crown jewel: Barter Theatre, its stone facade trimmed with garland, its iconic marquee blinking like a friendly invitation.

Historical and unique restaurants and taverns fill the streets. The famous Martha Washington Inn and Spa was built in 1832 and served as a private residence and inn. Right across the street from the Barter, it also housed many of the Barter’s famous patrons. https://www.themartha.com/abingdon-hotel-history.

Just down the street is our favorite restaurant, The Tavern, built in 1779, known for historic fine dining. https://abingdontavern.net/

For Christmas, it’s the Grinch.

Last week, for my birthday, we traveled to The Barter to see The Grinch Who Stole Christmas. I needed a musical theater fix. I’ve been to The Barter many times, and it never disappoints. The cast was outstanding, and the production was nothing short of Broadway. I easily imagined we were somewhere between West 41st and West 54th Streets in New York City’s Theater District.

Inside the lobby, there were kids in Grinch T-shirts chattering about whether the big green guy would be “nice or naughty today.” A toddler in a Max the Dog hoodie tried to howl convincingly and mainly succeeded in making nearby teenagers laugh.

This production of How the Grinch Stole Christmas is a full-hearted affair. Played by Sean Maximo Campos, the Grinch, is a performer with a Jim Carrey-esque rubber face. He leans into the character’s crabby charm with just the right amount of sly mischief. Cindy-Lou Who, tiny but mighty, draws applause every time she opens her mouth. The Whos themselves are a swirl of candy-cane colors—bright reds, peppermint whites, and enough sparkles to empty a craft store.

A historic theatre with a storied history.

This is a great trip to take before or after Christmas. The Grinch runs through December 28. In a season built on tradition, Barter Theatre — born of hope, creativity, humor, and a hog or two — remains the perfect holiday celebration. https://bartertheatre.com/

Melanie Staten is a public relations consultant with her husband, Vince.

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